HOW JEWELERY IS MADE AND A JEWELERY BRAND IS BUILT IN UKRAINE
01.10.2019 10:02:00
We invite you to the jewelry workshop of the «Sova» brand to find out how sketches turn into a finished product, who invents what we will wear in the new season, and how medical cybernetics is connected with jewelry.
Production
For a person who does not work in the jewelry industry, jewelry production can be reminiscent of a trip to Narnia: in the workshops, advertisements are called for carefully washing diamonds, gold is literally under your feet, and precious stones are collected on desktop computers instead of laptops and papers.
Despite all the surreality of events, the jewelry factory is not just an artist's workshop, but full-fledged production.To create delicate and delicate jewelry, expensive equipment and the professionalism of each master is required.
The creation of any jewelry begins with the study of current trends and market demand. This is done by category managers who draw up briefs based on the results of their research and send them to the art team. The decoration idea might even come from an Instagram comment. After this, the tasks are distributed among the artists and work on sketches begins.
1. Sketch
Sketches from the art team are accepted by the art director. It is he who is responsible for the ideas and chooses the main direction of the collections.
2. 3D - modeling
Once approved by the art team, selected sketches are sent to 3D modeling. At this stage, a digital version of the decor is created, taking into account design, technical capabilities and physical characteristics. Then the finished 3D model is sent to the wax injector.
With its help, constructions are created, which are called "«trees» in the workshop: several decorations are assembled on one basis. Finished wax figures are sent to the foundry, where they are turned from brass - and only then they are given for processing to the metal master.
With its help, constructions are created, which are called "«trees» in the workshop: several decorations are assembled on one basis. Finished wax figures are sent to the foundry, where they are turned from brass - and only then they are given for processing to the metal master.
3. Polishing
The next step is polishing. It takes place in two stages: first, the masters prepare hard-to-reach places of jewelry before assembly and installation, and after the product is returned back and fully processed.The masters process the smallest details manually: they remove irregularities and excess metal using special drills.
4. Tumbling
«After polishing, the decorations are sent to a stop. At this stage, the products are poured into special drums with polishing agents and reagents, which bring the jewelry to perfection: they are finally polished and crushed. "Any line is important in jewelry. The product can be sold, people can like it, but if I see the wrong line in it, I just won't pass it until I get the right sound».
5. Fixation / enameling
After all the procedures, the jewelry is sent either for enameling or for fixing precious stones. Both of these processes are very meticulous and are done by hand.
6. Polishing
The final step is polishing. It gives the jewelry a precious shine. After polishing, each product is checked in the assay department. Here, the piece of jewelry receives a special stamp, which confirms that the metal sample matches. Now the batch is ready for sale - the jewelry is sent to the finished goods warehouse, from where it goes shopping.
Production of jewelry «SOVA» in numbers
138 employees
work in production
18 days
average time to make jewelry
Team
«SOVA» says they have always wanted to create new jewelry for the local market. To do this, not specialists, but artists were recruited into the workshop - and already in the process they were taught the intricacies of jewelry art. Today, more than a hundred specialists work in production, and the team is constantly growing: many students come to the workshop, who then remain for permanent work. «SOVA» managers constantly analyze customer requests, look at large houses - and then determine the balance of trends and commerce.
Ideas
One of the most important moments in the creation of jewelry is the combination of the ideological part of production with the technical one. Without this, it will not be possible to create a product with a modern design.
The most important thing in any collection is harmony.
It should manifest itself in everything: from the formulation of an idea to its implementation. There are global trends that the art team follows. The sphere of jewelry art is closely connected with the fashion industry: if today the whole world walks in sneakers, then jewelry houses are unlikely to release many collections in the Empire style.
Global trends are carefully adapted to the local market: their directions are always the same. In addition to seasonal trends, the team also has constant sources of inspiration: the art director of «SOVA» devotes two hours every day to studying the traditional culture of the peoples of the world.
Global trends are carefully adapted to the local market: their directions are always the same. In addition to seasonal trends, the team also has constant sources of inspiration: the art director of «SOVA» devotes two hours every day to studying the traditional culture of the peoples of the world.
Raise
The «SOVA» does not focus on one portrait of the target audience. Each collection has its own history and concept, based on this, a promotion model is built. This helps to communicate with different groups of buyers and focus on portraits.
«We want to convey the idea that jewelry is part of the wardrobe, with which you can radically change the image or complement it. We create collections that can be stylistically different from each other, while reflecting the values of the brand. It is important for us that each collection finds its buyer, so we pay a lot of attention to merchandising and promotion. We make sure that all channels are stylistically unified and broadcast one simple message», says Anna Koval, «SOVA» Marketing and Sales Director.
Anna Koval
Marketing and Sales Director
In addition to the main collections, «SOVA» also has a direction of cooperation. Collaboration with designers provides an opportunity to come up with something completely new and drives the market as a whole.
«We made the first two collaborations with Ukrainian designers Lake Studio. Then we worked with the marsala shoe brand. It was a rather unconventional story: we did not make elements for shoes, but worked out joint sketches of jewelry. We have launched the third collaboration with Ivan Frolov and the «100 Percent Life Foundation». It was a powerful social project, part of the proceeds from the sale of jewelry went to a fund that purchases HIV tests to diagnose the disease in the early stages. Our fourth collaboration with the Litkovskaya brand was released in the fall of 2019, the main focus of which was malachite. In May 2021, they presented a collaboration with the rock band The HARDKISS. Golden lightning bolts, stars, spikes and other rock elements are found for the first time in the jewelry collections of the Ukrainian brand «SOVA» .
Anna Koval
Marketing and Sales Director
«SOVA» is one of the fastest growing Ukrainian jewelry brands. Today, the company employs more than 450 people, 37 stores have been opened throughout the country, and applications for new outlets from different cities are regularly received. But in addition to business tasks and sales, «SOVA» also talks about his other goal - to create his own original and recognizable visual style.